On our first full day in Norway we awoke to a heavy downpour. However, we didn’t let the rain stop us from setting out to absorb some history and culture of this fascinating Scandinavian country. Emily was the designated expert in plotting bus and subway routes. Doug was our guide to maneuver us through the maze of Oslo’s colorful side streets, plazas and historic buildings since he had already scouted the city in lengthy walks the day before.
The Viking Museum, our first stop, would be an appropriate introduction into Norway’s history. Ignoring the rain, we hopped a bus that took us out of town on a meandering tour along tree-lined two-lane country roads. Through a heavy mist we viewed a lush countryside of picturesque farmland and colorful wooden farmhouses and barns, cows grazing in green fields, and hay neatly stacked along tidy fences that marked off each checkerboard parcel of land.
The Viking Museum was of modest size, not overcrowded though this was Sunday noon. Three historic Viking vessels are on exhibit there, excavated from nearby fjords. Viewing their elaborate dragon and serpent carvings and the artifacts collected from their use as burial chambers for the nobility, we began to absorb a better understanding of the Viking culture and explorations of North America, Scandinavia and Europe dating back to the 9th century. We learned a great deal that day, impressed at the incredible distances through uncharted territories explored by these bold (and often barbaric) seafaring warriors. The distances Norsemen traveled and the diverse peoples they overcame date back as early as 787 when three ships arrived in Britain. During the 9th and 10th centuries they sailed as far as the Faroes, Iceland and Greenland. By 1000, the son of Eric the Red had begun to explore North America. The Viking Age lasted for the next three centuries and extended until the 13th Century. Their raids extended as far as Britain, Ireland, France, Russia, Moorish Spain and the Middle East, and they actually adventured as far as Baghdad and Constantinople (Istanbul).
Back onto the country road after this introduction into early Norse history, we hopped the bus back to town, stopping first at the Folklore Museum. Surrounded by a series of 140 reconstructed mostly 18th century houses, old barns, and colorful farmhouses with sod roofs, the museum was practically empty when arrived.
It was now late afternoon, but Doug insisted that we must take a hike through a Norwegian forest. A person of infinite energy, my youngest son is in great shape from his years of mountain biking in Colorado. He had already walked many miles through Oslo, leaving us to make our way by bus. But he was adamant that we should take the subway to the top of the ski run mountain and hike down through the deep forest.
I have to admit I was more than a little reluctant. I was already very tired, and my knees were showing signs of strain from our hours of museum walking. Also, I pointed out the cold rain that continued to drizzle, the gray fog that hovered over the drenched fields, and the fact that we couldn’t even start this hike until at least 6 p.m. However, as Doug argued, darkness wouldn’t be a problem: it was light 23 hours a day in this land of the midnight sun.
Obviously, I didn’t want to be a bad sport in my son’s eyes.
Off we went. We caught the subway to the top of Oslo’s ski run mountain. Emerging at the end of the line, we searched for the sign of a trail. Finding the path, we hiked for .5 kilometers through stands of Norway spruce, pine and aspen and silver birch dripping with fresh rainwater. Wild flowers bloomed along the trail, and we watched for blueberries here and there. We emerged at a very well-known landmark—a scenic restaurant that featured not only an outstanding menu but also a fantastic view of the city far below at the base of the mountain when it wasn't raining.
This would be our first full meal in Norway, and Emily decided to try the Norwegian national dish, reindeer. Steaming asparagus soup was my preference, though I tasted the reindeer meat for the first time. I preferred the soup.
Warmed from the rest and hot meal, we headed out again, hiking downhill along the steep rocky path through the deep pine and fir forest. By now, the rain was falling in a steady downpour. It seemed my “waterproof” windbreaker didn’t quite meet its advertised standards, and soon I was soaking wet.
However, I steeled myself to keep from complaining though my knees began to buckle more frequently as we descended steadily down hill along the steep forest trail.
Finally, just when I was truly exhausted and soaking wet, I knew I had reached the end of my endurance. What seemed to me like two hours of torture had passed with no end in sight. I trusted Doug but began to actually believe we were lost in a totally unfamiliar environment.
But salvation was at hand. A young biker appeared from around the bend of the trail. Aha, civilization was at hand! We saw just beyond the bend a subway platform! As we commenced this, to me, ill-fated adventure, Doug had promised we would find the ski run subway platform down just one stop from the end of the line at the top of the mountain. However, it turned out we had actually hiked down the trail FOUR stops from the top! No sweat for Doug and Emily, but much more difficult for me. I didn’t let him forget his miscalculation for the rest of the trip! But after a hot bath and a cup of chocolate, I had to admit this was our first unforgettable adventure in Norway.
[Go to Norway Part Three]
